Growing Herbs year Round

Ross Traverse — Fri, 28 May 2010 05:08:07 +0000

A: Herbs are gaining popularity in the home garden and while they do provide
some aesthetic interest, flavour and fragrance is their true claim to fame.
Herbs can be grown in a flower garden, in a formal herb garden, in
containers on a small balcony, or even on a windowsill. Some herbs can be
grown from seed and others purchased as transplants.

Some herbs are annuals, while others are perennials. Annual herbs include arugula, basil, borage, caraway, chervil, cilantro/coriander, dill, parsley, rosemary, summer savory, and sweet marjoram. Perennials include chives, lavender, lemon balm, mint, oregano, sage, tarragon, and thyme. Herbs require the same general growing conditions as most plants in the garden but there are special instructions for harvesting and preserving. Essential oils contained in the various plant parts (primarily the leaves) are extremely volatile when exposed to heat, causing delicate flavours to be lost. For best effect, add herbs near the end of cooking.

Herbs From Seed
Many herbs are easily grown from seed, including basil, chives, parsley,
and dill. Sow the seed in a single container, water thoroughly with warm
water, cover with clear plastic, and keep the container in a warm location.
It is important to use a good quality potting soil to prevent disease, allow
good drainage, and provide the proper nutrients for plant growth. As soon as
the seedlings emerge, remove the plastic cover and place the plants in the
natural light of a south-facing window at a temperature slightly below room
temperature. When the seedlings are big enough to handle, transplant them
into separate containers or cell-pack trays with individual cells for each
plant. Herbs can be planted in the garden after the danger of frost.

Growing Conditions
It is important to know the growing conditions of each herb. Is it annual or
perennial? Does it grow in a cool climate or does it require a warm, sunny
location? Most herbs perform best in full sun; a few tolerate part shade
(e.g. lemon balm, mint, parsley, tarragon). Herbs generally require
well-drained soil and an application of 20-20-20 or 20-8-20 fertilizer every
two weeks throughout the growing season. Pinch back new growth to create
bushier, more productive plants.
Growing herbs in containers can be very convenient, especially if they are
located close to the kitchen. Tender herbs grown in containers can easily be
taken inside for the winter and some herbs, such as basil, simply perform
better in containers. It is always important to select pots with good
drainage and removable saucers.

Harvesting Herbs
Most herbs can be harvested throughout the growing season, as long as enough
of the plant remains intact to sustain good growth. For best effect, harvest
herbs at the first sign of blossom development, the stage when the oil
content in the leaves is the greatest and the flavour is most intense;
harvesting when the flowers are in full bloom results in bitter flavour. The
best time to harvest foliage is early in the morning after the dew has
evaporated but before the temperature rises.
Edible flowers, often a milder version of the leaves, are typically used as
garnish. The most popular edible flowers include calendulas, nasturtiums,
violas, chives, and borage. Harvest flowers immediately before use. Early
morning and late afternoon yield the best flavour.
Edible seedheads can be harvested when they have changed colour and dried.

Storing and Preserving
To dry herbs, place them in a location that is warm, dark and dry. Tie them in bunches and hang to dry. Drying may take anywhere from a few days to a few weeks,
depending on temperature and humidity. When the herbs feel crisp, rub the
leaves from the stalks and store them in a moisture proof, airtight
container. Dried herbs begin to lose flavour after a year or so. Some herbs
(basil, for example) lose their flavour when dried and are best when chopped
and frozen in water.
Freezing is an excellent technique for preserving colour and flavour. To
freeze herbs whole, rinse them in cold water, shake off the excess water, and
dip them olive oil. Place the herbs loosely into plastic bags or store them
in rigid containers to prevent the leaves from getting crushed. Another
freezing technique is to place chopped herbs in ice cube trays and fill with
water. Once frozen, remove the herb cubes and store them in freezer bags.
Thaw as necessary for soups, stews and other recipes.

VOWR Gardening Time

Ross Traverse — Fri, 28 May 2010 00:09:46 +0000

For expert advice and helpful tips on gardening, listen to Ross Traverse and Jane Noseworthy each week on VOWR Gardening Time!

Show airs Saturday at 5:45 pm and again Wednesday at 12:45 pm.

Listen online anytime!

Book Launch via Helium Balloon Arrives in Scotland

Ross Traverse — Thu, 27 May 2010 19:44:43 +0000

Airmail promotion
Book launch via helium balloon lands in Scotland

TARA MULLOWNEY THE TELEGRAM
The Telegram

Ross Traverse is out $100 today, and he couldn’t be happier. Traverse, who owns Traverse Gardens in Torbay, launched his first book, “Ask Ross Traverse About Gardening: Practical Advice for Gardeners in a Cool Climate,” Sept. 21, and came up with a unique promotional tool for the event.

He got a red camper’s fuel cylinder — which is aluminum, lightweight and water-proof — and filled it with bookmarks, information about his book, and a note, saying whoever found the cylinder and contacted Traverse would receive a $100 reward.

September 21, 2006 Torbay, Newfoundland

He then tied the cylinder to a small peat pot, which disintegrates in contact with water, and tied the peat pot to a dozen foil balloons filled with helium. At the book launch at Traverse Gardens in September, Traverse and his wife, Marcie, let the balloons go.

“We let them go over land, and we were never even sure they made it to the water,” Traverse said. “They almost crashed first when we let them go, but then they rose up and sailed away.

“It was an idea we had, but we never expected anything to come of it.”

Traverse was surprised, then, when on Sunday he got a call from David Beaumont in Oronsay, a small island in the Inner Hebrides in Scotland.

“He was part of a group of ecological researchers cleaning up a beach, and he came across this red cylinder,” Traverse said.

February 18, 2007 Oronsay, Scotland

“He threw it to his friend, who opened it and found the bookmarks and the note.

“We were so excited to hear from him, my wife organized a party right away and we had some friends in.”

Beaumont told Traverse everything inside the cylinder had arrived in perfect condition, and the location couldn’t have been more perfect, since some of the habitants of Oronsay — of which there were five in the 2001 census — are organic farmers.

“On the phone, he never even mentioned the $100,” Traverse said with a chuckle, “but I told him I’m going to send him the book and the money. He’s going to send me some pictures and we’re going to correspond by e-mail.”

Growing Fruit in a Cool Climate

Ross Traverse — Thu, 27 May 2010 18:54:16 +0000

A: The key to growing fruit in Newfoundland and Labrador is selecting cultivars that will produce mature fruit in a short growing season. Advances in plant breeding have led to the development of many early-maturing cultivars that perform well in cool climates. Note that certain cultivars or even types of fruit trees sold locally may not necessarily be suitable for Newfoundland and Labrador. Three fruit trees that typically do well in Newfoundland and Labrador are cherry, plum and pear.

‘Toka’ sweet early plum

Prunus and Pyrus
Prunus is a large group of plants that includes cherry (sweet cherry and sour cherry) and plum. It also includes apricot and peach, but these trees are unlikely to produce mature fruit in Newfoundland and Labrador. Sweet cherries were traditionally self-sterile but now self-pollinating cultivars are available, eliminating the need to plant a second cultivar. Sour cherries are self-pollinating. Plum trees are classified as American, European or Japanese. Pollination can be quite complicated with respect to pairing compatible cultivars, but several self-pollinating cultivars are now available. However, yield may still be greater if a second cultivar is introduced.
Pears belong to the Pyrus genus, of which there are several early-maturing cultivars that perform well in Newfoundland and Labrador. Pear trees are self-sterile. To ensure successful cross-pollination, two different pear cultivars must be planted within a distance of 30 m.
Ornamental cousins of cherry, plum and pear have been bred for their floral display rather than fruit production. The fruit from these trees are typically insignificant and inedible; some do not bear fruit at all.

Planting and Care
Commercially grown fruit trees are usually grafted. Grafting is a highly specialized technique whereby a superior cultivar is united with a hardy rootstock. Grafted trees can be identified by the presence of a large lump (graft) near the base of the trunk. The planting hole should be twice as wide as the root ball and deep enough so that the graft is set just below the surface of the soil. Mix organic matter and agricultural lime with the soil that is removed from the planting hole.
Each year in late spring apply a general-purpose fertilizer (e.g. 15-5-15). Another technique that works quite well for fruit trees is to mulch them with seaweed each year and supplement with a light application of general-purpose fertilizer. Do not apply commercial fertilizer after the end of July.

Pruning
Early spring, before new growth begins, is the best time to prune fruit trees. Dormant pruning is less stressful to the tree plus it is easier to view the shape and form of the canopy while the leaves are off. Some guidelines for pruning include:

* remove the lower branches to a height of about 120 cm above the ground,
* remove any branches that grow straight up in the centre of the tree to allow the plant to capture more light,
* remove sucker growth that develops below the graft, and
* remove dead or broken branches and branches that cross over each other.

Black Knot
Black knot is a serious disease that affects plums (especially damson plums) and some cultivars of cherry. It is extremely common on the native pin cherry (Prunus pensylvanica), a major source of infection for cultivated plants.
The black knot fungus, Dibotryon morbosum, causes black “warty” looking growth on the branches. To control the fungus, remove any wild cherries growing in the area. Inspect the trees every spring and fall and remove any branches containing the black knots. It is important to prune at least 10-15 cm below each knot. Bury or burn affected branches immediately after pruning. Chemical control is neither effective nor practical for the home gardener.

Seeding a New Lawn

Ross Traverse — Thu, 27 May 2010 07:39:28 +0000

* A seed mixture of 40% Kentucky bluegrass, 40% creeping red fescue and 20% annual ryegrass is recommended.
* Large stones should be raked from the surface.
* Before seeding, apply lime at the rate of 5 kg per 10 sq m (10 lbs per 100 sq ft) and rake in 6-12-12 fertilizer at the rate of 2 kg per 10 sq m (4 lbs per 100 sq ft).
* Spread the seed at the rate of 2 kg per 100 sq m (4 lbs per 1000 sq ft) and lightly rake it into the soil.* If the soil surface dries out, apply water to help the seed germinate.
* Mow the new grass when it gets about 8 cm (3 in) high. Set the lawnmower wheels to the maximum height and keep the blades sharp.
* Apply 15-5-15 fertilizer after the first mowing at the rate of 1.5 kg per 10 sq m (3 lbs per 100 sq ft).

Planting Trees and Shrubs from Traverse Gardens

Ross Traverse — Thu, 27 May 2010 07:21:58 +0000

* Dig a hole twice as wide as the root ball but no deeper than is necessary to bury the roots. Loosen the soil in the bottom of the hole and around the sides of the hole 60 cm (2 ft) out from the centre of the root ball.
* Mix one or two handfuls of agricultural lime with the soil dug from the hole.
* Do not add any fertilizer when planting our trees and shrubs. We have already added fertilizer to the soil in the container.
* If necessary, improve the drainage by installing a drain or elevating the planting area.
* Remove the plastic bag by cutting around the bottom and sides after you put the plant in the hole. Do not disturb the roots.
* Firm the soil around the root ball.
* Apply 8 cm (3 in) of peat-bark mulch around the tree or shrub. Do not allow grass or weeds to grow within 60-90 cm (2-3 ft) of the stem.
* A large tree should be staked with three wooden stakes and tied with a soft biodegradable material like folded burlap.
* Water every few days if the soil is dry.
* Remove all branches and growth from the bottom third of most deciduous trees up until the point where you want the permanent branches to stay.
* Do not put any fertilizer on our trees and shrubs in the first year. Check with Traverse Gardens for fertilizer recommendations after the first year.

Tips on Landscape Planning

Ross Traverse — Thu, 27 May 2010 07:19:08 +0000

* Driveways and access should be the first consideration. Lots of parking and turning space is a must.
* Plan for snow removal. Do not plant trees or shrubs where snow is to be stockpiled.
* Avoid planting grass on slopes. Instead, plant ground covers, trees, and shrubs, or construct a retaining wall.
* Permanent ground covers, trees and shrubs require less maintenance than lawn grass.
* Plan for colour during all seasons of the year. For example, the stems of red twig dogwood shrubs provide brilliant red colour all winter long.
* Choose appropriate plants for the location. For example, don’t plant roses in the shade.
* Plant wind tolerant trees like native white spruce for shelter and to reduce heating cost.
* Use native trees and shrubs to reduce cost and provide reliable growth.
* Use peat-bark mulch to control weeds.
* Prune trees and shrubs every year. Get our expert advice on pruning each type of plant.
* Keep the lawn area separate from the planting area for ease of maintenance and a pleasant effect.
* Place flower and shrub beds so they can be viewed from inside the house.
* Walkways of hard packed gravel or paving stone should be used for low maintenance access.
* Plan a watering system, especially for annuals and vegetables.
* A hedge is cheaper than a fence in the long run.
* Plant trees and shrubs that attract birds.
* Fragrant flowering shrubs enhance the entrance to the house.

Keeping an Established Lawn Green and Healthy

Ross Traverse — Thu, 27 May 2010 07:17:01 +0000

* Lime every year at the rate of 5 kg per 10 sq m (10 lbs per 100 sq ft).
* Fertilize in the spring, again in midsummer, and in September with 15-5-15 fertilizer at the rate, each time, of 1.5 kg per 10 sq m (3 lbs per 100 sq ft).
* Mow the grass as high as possible and mow often so that only the top third of the grass is removed. At least 5 cm (2 in) of green grass should remain after mowing.
* Rake out moss and reseed if necessary following the instructions for seeding.
* It is best to remove weeds manually, especially if the lawn contains clover.

Planting and Care of Roses

Ross Traverse — Thu, 27 May 2010 07:14:44 +0000

Planting and Care of Roses

* Prepare the soil as suggested for flowers and vegetables.
* Rose bushes should be set so the graft is 10-15 cm (4-6 in) below the surface of the soil.
* Some roses, such as hybrid teas, are heavy feeders so water soluble fertilizer should be applied 3 or 4 times during the growing season up until the end of August. Check with Traverse Gardens for specific fertilizer recommendations.
* Do not cut back roses in the fall. Check with Traverse Gardens for pruning recommendations.
* Plant roses in full sun. For best effect, plant in groups of the same colour and variety.
* Protect hybrid tea and floribunda roses for the winter by mounding 30 cm (12 in) of soil up around the stems in the fall.

Planting and Care of Perennials

Ross Traverse — Thu, 27 May 2010 07:11:56 +0000

Planting and Care of Perennials

* Make sure all grass and weeds are removed from the beds.
* Plant in groups of three or more to give a good splash of colour.
* Check the height the plants will grow. Tall plants such as phlox should be at the back of the bed.
* Plant the types that bloom in spring, summer and fall. Plant in a big bed to give colour all season.
* Feed perennials in spring or early summer with a general-purpose fertilizer such as 6-12-12 (2 kg per 10 sq m) or 20-20-20 (15 ml in 4 L of water).
* Lime can be applied to established perennials in the fall or early spring at the rate of 5 kg per 10 sq m (10 lbs per 100 sq ft).
* Faded blooms should be removed to prevent some perennials from becoming weeds.
* Apply 8 cm (3 in) of peat-bark mulch after planting new perennials.